29-6-14, Bought a racing seat yesterday.
Roll Frame design rough drawing:
-> Motor Control (Motor selection, Motor controllers, software interface, Emergency stop + reset)
-> Sim Software (Needs to work with Occulus + head tracking + motors)
-> USB joystick (+ rudders)
-> Hardware (bearings/shaft electrical connections/frame design + construction)
having the graphics computer rotating with the seat or outside the apparatus:
inside (most likely):
-HDMI direct to occulus.
-Only motor data and power connections from computer through rotating electrical contacts.
-possibly requires SSD for computer due to motion.
-Motor Control hardware either inside or outside frame connected to computer via (x-sim?!) USB industrial motor controller? + Secondary motor backup control outside frame.
-requires running HDMI and USB through rotating electrical contacts
-only require 1 computer for all controls
Having motor controllers outside Vs 1 in for roll and 1 out for pitch
1 inside (with computer inside):
-mains voltage coming in to pitch motor.
-Roll motor controller connects direct to computer, pitch control signal goes outside.
Both outside (computer inside with motor control signal going through inter connects):
-Roll motor current cables going through interconnects.
-Motor control data going out through slip-ring.
-Also requires power for computer coming in through slip ring.
Yesterday I finished the install of a Wireless Access point I’ve been working on for a while. It consists of a high gain wifi antenna on my roof, connected to an access point, and thats connected to my home computer network. The Access point is a Mikrotik RB411UAHR built into a Jaycar 5050 Aluminium enclosure ( with the plastic cover from an A4 folder to insulate the board :p ).
The Antenna is a 24dBi Grid antenna I’ve had sitting around for a while. Because we’re renting here I designed an antenna mast that is removable. To do that I took measurements of the chimney and built a mast..
I ran a network cable I had sitting around down the chimney and into a Power over Ethernet adapter. In order to align the antenna I used trusty google earth.
Aug 2013: Love it when things come together. 80W stereo Response Amp (160W) running bridged into a dual 250W(?) voice coil Vifa Subwoofer Driver, (12″ version), coils wired in series, with a grille on the front, in a ported house.
Antenna power cable only gives power when the radio is on… I had to rewire this and I chose to power on the amp from the ACC/ignition trigger cable on the radio. This way the amp can be on regardless of the radio, not perfect but better.
Waiting for boss stereo attenuator, need to wire the juicy cables in the mean time..
Wired in the amp and the speaker today… all works well.
I had to take the cover off the front dash again, just to confirm the polarities on the speaker cables, didnt want one channel to be on the opposite phase to the other…
There is one thing I can still do, I wired a cable from the amp up behind the steering wheel which is for remote volume control for the amp, but I lost the volume knob… maybe a job for another day.